nCity Mac Q and A


Just the facts, ma'am.....

Presented here are a few of the more common questions we encounter at the shop, which we've endeavored to answer as best we can. But first, a tip about error messages in general:

Apple has always included detailed specifics in Mac System errors, including the probable cause and solution, whenever possible. When the MacOS puts up a dialog box, it _always_ has something to say. However, error messages originating from within an application program can be altogether different. It's a subtle but important distinction, and it helps to identify the source of a dialog box or error message before taking any action.


<- Major Topics (also linked in sidebar):

All About Passwords and Password Protection

What happens if I lose my password?

Foreign File Access (including browser plug-ins)

Easy 2-Mac Network: File Transfer

Importing Data to a New Macintosh

MacOS Navigation: Basics and Controls

"You need to restart your computer" message

Switching Between OSX and OS9 (Classic Mode)

Program Compatibility and Quirks (Classic Mode)

Short Questions and Answers (below):

I reinstalled a driver, why won't it work?

How can I get a disk out of my CD/DVD drive?

My Mail settings are correct. Why can't I SEND email?

Do I need anti-virus software on my Mac?

What if you can't recover my data?

Do I need to run Software Update?

How do I turn things on and off at startup?

Is security really necessary?

What does "disk is almost full" message mean?


I tried several times to reinstall a driver for my printer, why won't it work?: Installers (generally speaking) do one of three things:

1) They blindly install software regardless of previous installations.
2) They check for previously installed software before installing anything, and offer continue/delete-install/quit options.
3) They may or may not overwrite previously installed files from earlier and/or current installations. (A corrupt file may be skipped, or it might be overwritten.)

It depends entirely on how the Installer was written.

Because of this, it is usually wise to delete (or remove and archive) previous/multiple installations of drivers/apps/software before installations - unless, of course, the installation is an update/upgrade which requires the presence of previously installed software (such as an OS or Application update).

Device drivers, being relatively short-lived, may not have an "Uninstall" option, and may not be written to check for prior installations. In addition, printer drivers may already be included in your Operating System (default installation), making installation of a printer driver unnecessary (and possibly problematic). Drivers on CDs included with printers are often outdated, too.

Best to hunt down previous installations using installer's "Uninstall" option - if installer has one - or by searching for files by name and carefully selecting and removing appropriate files. There may be dozens of files installed; by law, an installer log is supposed to be provided which details exactly what went where; it can be found in Library -> Receipts.

How can I get a disk out of my CD/DVD drive?

Holding the mouse button down during startup should eject anything in your CD/DVD drive. If that doesn't work, insert a straightened paper clip into the tiny hole found in drive's tray or to one side of (some) slot-load drive's slot. If the paper clip trick isn't an option, here's how to eject a disk using Open Firmware commands:

1. Restart the computer.

2. Immediately after startup sound, press and hold Command+Option+O+F keys.

3. Release the keys when you see "Welcome to Open Firmware."

4. At the prompt, type: "eject cd"

5. Press Return and wait a few seconds; disc drive should eject any disc that is present.

6. When "OK" appears, type: "mac-boot" to restart and press Return key.

My Mail.app SMTP settings are correct. Why can't I send email?

If you've recently changed ISPs and correctly edited SMTP server settings - but Mail still refuses to send - you may have encountered a somewhat sticky Mail server setting "bug". Try sending an email and carefully examine the error message that results; it will likely identify a server that has been disabled or even deleted, and might include incorrect settings or a simple typo. First, make certain you have all the correct POP/IMAP/SMTP server settings in hand, and your user name/password info written down somewhere handy. Then head into Mail -> Preferences -> Account armed with a virtual machete.

Sometimes, editing SMTP settings isn't enough without deleting the old settings and/or creating entirely new SMTP server settings. Trick: Try using the Option Key when deleting the old settings. Then, close prefs to save changes. Next:

1. Open Mail preferences and go to the Accounts pane.

2. From "Outgoing Mail Server" popup menu, select "Add Server..."

3. Enter your SMTP server settings (even if you've already done this before).

4. Click OK and close Mail's preferences to save changes.

5. Verify that outgoing email works by sending yourself an email.

6. Edit unused/dysfunctional servers from Mail's server list if you wish.

Do I need an anti-virus program?

The vast majority of our clients (and I'd venture to guess Mac users in general) have never encountered a virus. Ever. That's not to say there's no risk, but for most Mac users anti-virus software isn't a necessity.

Of course, if you are running Windows on your Mac (using VirtualPC, or BootCamp, or Parallel, etc.) your Windows partition _is_ susceptible to all that Windows malware out there, and you _must_ run the same anti-virus, anti-spyware, anti-adware, anti-whatever utilities that are common on Windows machines.

My hard drive failed. What if you can't recover my data for me?

We will make every effort to recover your data in the event of a damaged directory, data corruption, media fault or other problem. If, however, the drive is determined to have suffered a mechanical failure or media disintegration, further attempts to operate the device may be detrimental. We refer catastrophic failures to DriveSavers. Here's what DriveSavers has to say:

"DriveSavers has specialized in recovering lost data for almost 20 years and has a success rate over 90%. The company recovers data in as little as 24 hours from all operating systems and storage media including hard drives, floppies, CD-ROM, removable and magneto-optical cartridges. DriveSavers is authorized by all hard drive manufacturers to open sealed drive mechanisms without voiding the original warranty."

Do I need to run Software Update?

If you have broadband (DSL, cable, satellite) the answer is yes. You can even set Software Update to check for updates automatically. Airport-equipped notebooks can always make use of a wireless connection at home or elsewhere. If you have dialup, tho, downloading large files is a problem (as you no doubt know), and running Software Update is not feasible. Here are a few other options for obtaining updates:

You may be able to purchase a batch of updates on disk from Apple for a nominal fee (the cost of the disk; see Apple links in our Links section).
Ask a friend who has broadband to download the updates from Apple's web site and burn them to a disk for you (also in Links section).
Bring your Mac in (just the CPU) and we'll use nCity's network to download and install all available updates for you. We charge a small fee for the service; please call for rates and an appointment.

How do I turn things on and off at startup?

Open your System Preferences and click on the Accounts icon. In the Accounts pane, click Login Items tab (aka Startup Items in 10.3.x). There you will find a list of everything that launches on startup. Be careful when editing startup items; some of these are required by the Operating System in order to perform some pretty basic functions (like mounting an iPod, or scheduled iCal alerts).

What does "Disk is almost full" message mean?

It means you're about to run out of space on your hard drive. If this happens, you will be unable to save anything new, applications may quit unexpectedly without room to work, and your machine may eventually refuse to startup. You might be able to buy a little time by moving photos, movies, music and large files off the drive to storage on CDs or other volumes (be sure to leave System and Library files alone), and you can also reclaim some space by deleting cache files, old emails and unwanted debris - but these solutions probably won't work for long.

Hard drives require a certain amount of free space to operate efficiently, and a full disk can effectively prevent use of maintenance and optimization utilities. You will need to add a second drive and/or replace your existing drive with a larger one, then copy all your data to the new volume. (If you don't have a backup, now might be a good time to set one up.) We can help; see the Services section for details.

Passive security and the MacOS:

Mac users haven't had to worry much about security issues - certainly not like the long-suffering Windows platform - so, suddenly having to deal with login accounts and passwords and such has been something of a problem for some in the Macintosh community. Apple's MacOS has a surprising amount of passive security built in (by "passive" I mean to exclude encryption and the more severe security tools also included in OSX). Almost all security measures are optional and/or automatic, making it easy to ignore passive security entirely - all, that is, _except_ for a few passwords.

Who wants what, and why.

Scenario: Rod (a former beta tester here at nCity) set up a wireless network. (With AirPort and a Base Station, connecting is a no-brainer).

He setup an email account on his laptop using his existing ISP account - with his username and email password - and he hit the road.

Rod traveled to Sedona Arizona, settled into a nice vortex, and opened his notebook to find three wireless networks available: A nearby Bigbucks coffee house, the local Fire Department, and something named "vortexrus." As was his habit, Rod launched his mail program and, as usual, a dialog box appears requesting his password. He types in his email password and waits - and waits - until a message pops up saying connection timed out.

He leaves the Bigbucks network and selects the FD network. It wants a password. Confused, he tries his email password, then his login password, he tries every password he can think of. Same thing happened with the "vortexrus" network.

Roger (another nCity beta tester) happens to be in Sedona (wishing he'd bought real estate) and finds Rod sipping a cappuccino, still guessing passwords.

"It's easy. Your email program is trying to connect to your home network back at your yurt in California. You have to retrieve your email thru your ISP's web site instead."

Rod connects to the Bigbucks network - the other two networks required passwords he doesn't have - launches his web browser (Safari ), goes to his ISP's web site, then enters his username and password to retrieve his email.

Piece o'cake. (25 messages, 24 of 'em are spam.)

"Just know you're sending and receiving over an unsecured network, so avoid sending anything sensitive," Roger said, getting a little queasy from the vortex.....

The point is, it's just as important to know who or what is requesting your password, as it is to know (and remember) which passwords go where.

What's in a word?

Password-breaking programs and magic plug-in gizmos that retrieve secret codes, character-by-character, are the stuff of fiction. It only happens in Hollywood. Modern algorithms can encrypt a password right out of existence, and a lost password can effectively stop you in your tracks. And, unless you're willing to completely obliterate every bit of data and start all over from scratch, those old, forgotten, missing passwords have a way of coming back to haunt computers.

It often helps to write down rarely-used passwords - along with email and network settings. We've provided a printable "cheat sheet" to record login, network, email settings and passwords (button, right) - just be sure to store such personal info in a secure location.

Is security really necessary?

Yes, and no.

No, because we've gotten along all this time without any to speak of, and no harm done. Right? But..... the MacOS makes password protection mandatory; you've always had to have a password for email, and now you must have one for login accounts, too. (Although - I ran across one machine that managed to have no password as a password - just hit enter - the enter key?) Anyway, set login to auto, and the next time you'll encounter a need for your password will be when (and if) you try to install something or run Software Update. Or, when your machine winds up here in the shop.

Yes, because there will always be that nasty element among us; and yes, because privacy is a big part of basic human dignity. Security and self-defense are basic human rights, and both have become increasingly important over the years. The stakes are high, and unless you have some strange desire to become a "good victim," security measures are an absolute must.


What happens if I lose my password?

Take your best guess - over and over, if you must.

If it's gone forever, the only correct thing to do is erase (overwrite) the volume and - if possible - restore from a backup. (A properly cloned backup will, of course, be protected by the same password, so this is not a likely option.)

Don't.

Catch 22:: You might (depending on your usage and habits) get away with the (secret!) process of resetting your password, but I can tell you from experience, you _will_ eventually face that old password again. Can you create another admin account? Probably not without that password. You need your password to change your password. Yossarian would be proud.

Tricks for creating passwords:: One client uses the numeric keypad: 1-2-3-enter, four keys all in a row (fast, too!). Then there was that no-password password trick (using the enter key). Some people use birthdays, anniversaries, or the ever-popular spouse/kids/pet name. Other folks use license plates, serial numbers, dates, addresses, movie/music/book titles, or (better yet) some combination of these. Encryption and password schemes range all the way from random-generated, gigabit, rotating codes, down to using a tattoo. The trick is to remember - or record - your passwords. If you write them down, be sure to store them in a safe and secure place. Use our "cheat sheet" (button, just above) and fill-in the blanks with passwords and network settings.

Identifying file types:: There are a vast assortment of file types from various word processor and text edit programs, digital audio/video applications, and other programs designed to run on Windows, UNIX, the MacOS and other computer platforms. On a Mac, file types are identified by a file's icon, its file name extension (last three letters in file's name, "file.xxx"), and by file's type/creator codes (used by the OS, you'll probably never see type/creator codes unless you go looking for them).
: In fact, there are utilities ranging from $50 to $600 designed specifically to translate between various common formats, including: WMV, QT7, MPEG4, MP3, PSP, PD, FLV, SWF, DivX, Real10, CD and DVD file types including AIF/AIFF, Sorensen and H.264 video, and countless others.
: Of these, QT7 (QuickTime 7) is the best value in terms of audio/video file format versatility, using all but proprietary file types from competing products that do not operate with QT7 (usually Windows-only files such as MWV).
: If you must read Windows-only file formats, you may need a utility to translate Windows-only media into a universal format, such as QT7 for audio/video files, or Adobe's Portable Document Format (PDF). See the Links section for a few recommended utilities.


Get Info window:

Selecting a file and choosing "Get Info" from Finder's File menu (right) will provide information about the file, along with a few file management options, including the "Open with" option.

By its nature, selecting an alternative application to open an unknown file type is not a foolproof process; using the wrong type of application - for example, trying to open a graphic file with a text edit program - will either fail or result in a screen full of gibberish (see below).

Worse, if you're not paying attention, you might set the wrong app as default; each time you encounter the mystery file type, an inappropriate app will launch and produce an error (or fail).

If the Get Info window doesn't adequately identify a foreign file type, a search of Google for the filename extension might shed some light on the file's origin and suggest an alternative application.

If you inadvertently assign the wrong application to an unknown file type, select the file, open the Get Info window again, and try a different application.

Tip: A shortcut to figuring out which apps might open an unknown file is to drag the file's icon over apps in your applications folder (or over icons in the Dock) and see which ones hilite. Those that do will at least attempt to open the file.

Get Info from Finder's File menu
Oops!: If a document opens with a screen full of gibberish, odds are you're attempting to do the impossible:
: This file happens to be an animated GIF (graphic) file, opened in a powerful text edit program which will open - or attempt to open - darn near anything. If you'll notice, about the only legible text appears in top-left corner, "GIF89a," which geek-types will recognize as being the actual file type. This file is also identified by its filename extension ".gif" which will open in any graphics program, browser, email, presentation or page layout program (such as Keynote or Pages). Text-only programs that have no graphics capability will usually refuse to open such a file rather than produce a screen full of useless gibberish as illustrated here.

Browser plug-ins:

Some web pages contain special content, usually an audio/video/animation component, that requires a proprietary plug-in be added to your browser. If you use Safari, you'll see a dialog box similar to the one illustrated here (right) explaining what is needed with a link for downloading the required plug-in from its web source.

Is viewing such a page worth the bother of downloading/installing a special browser plug-in? Probably not.

Browser plug-in required, complete with link to download.: It might help to remember that your web browser (Safari, Firefox, etc.) is doing all the work when surfing the web; web pages, like any application-specific document, merely contain raw data which is downloaded, assembled, interpreted and displayed by your browser. While all browsers conform to internet standards, one browser may display content slightly different than another (font faces, sizes, etc.). Installing a plug-in allows your browser to interpret additional file types.

Network options are determined by available ports and protocols.

Best choice is Ethernet which allows multiple Macs to share files, printer and internet connection. Cat5 cables are readily available, and a quick, small network is easy to setup on modern Macs.

Plug ethernet cables between machines (or connect thru router)
Turn AppleTalk on (all machines)
Start FileSharing and assign names/passwords to each Mac (if not already set)
Open network connection (OSX Go menu or System Prefs, the Chooser in OS9)

Ethernet and wireless networks:

For a small office network (LAN) of reasonably current Macs, use ethernet cable and/or AirPort to connect machines to a central router or gateway (with modem) in a star configuration. Number of router ports dictates maximum number of networked machines. (Some routers include a printer port.) Early AirPort used 802.11b; AirPort Extreme works with 802.11g wireless routers.

Simple 2-Mac network over ethernet:

If a crossover cable is required, the Macs will automatically detect and adjust as needed. Connect one end of Cat5 cable to each Mac.

8-wire RJ-45 jacks on standard Cat5 ethernet cable.

(Smaller 4-wire telephone jacks are known as RJ-11.)

Very early ethernet-equipped Macs:

These may require a crossover cable for a simple 2-machine network. No router or hub is required, but wiring order is modified on one end of the ethernet cable (transmit and receive pairs are reversed).

Ethernet crossover cable: One end is standard (as above),

the other has all four orange and green wires reversed.

Startup File Sharing (requires names, passwords):

Click Network icon in Finder to connect, or use the Go menu -> Connect to Server. Enter IP address and password to connect to named machine.

OS9: Go to the Chooser and select AppleShare or Server icon in left Chooser pane; click "Server IP Address" in right pane and enter server's address. Make sure AppleTalk is on, close Chooser window.

8-wire RJ-45 jacks on standard Cat5 ethernet cable.

(Smaller 4-wire telephone jacks are known as RJ-11.)

FireWire (laptop in Target Disk Mode):

Connect machines using a FireWire cable. Startup the laptop while holding down the "T" key (Target Mode). The laptop will appear as another hard disk on desktop of host machine.

SCSI Disk Mode (shutdown machines before connecting):

Early Macs were SCSI-equipped, but later models require addition of a SCSI PCI card, which gets kinda tricky. If you can connect SCSI to SCSI and have access to the proper SCSI cable, shutdown both machines and make the connection, then startup the target device (and any other SCSI devices) before powering up the host computer.

Sneakernet:

_Really_ old machines with floppy drives may be reduced to this, the oldest networking technique available: Copy files to removable disk, then carry disk to second machine. Repeat.

Data transfer options depend on System versions and connectivity.

Suggestions listed below start with the easiest method - importing to a brand-new Mac from a FireWire-equipped Mac - then progresses thru somewhat more complicated methods involving older machines and earlier Operating Systems.

First step: A careful cleanup of the old hard drive.

Startup your old Mac - the one you'll copy from - and launch your email app. Delete old emails, junk and spam, then empty trash in your email program. Open your web browser and delete any unused/unwanted bookmarks, clear browser's history, delete cookies and clear cache files.

Next, go thru your hard drive: Sort thru your files (docs, photos, music, movies, etc.) and drag all temporary, unused, unwanted files and folders into the trash. (Best to leave Applications, OS components, System and Library folders alone, by the way.) When you're satisfied that you won't lose anything important, empty the trash.

Open System Preferences -> Accounts -> Login Items (or Startup Items) and disable any non-Apple applications, utilities or files that open or launch on startup. (In pre-OSX System versions, look in Control Panels -> Startup Items folder.) Finally, use Disk Utility to repair permissions on the old drive one last time (if it's an option), then verify the drive (if live verify is available) to make sure all is well.

PLEASE NOTE: If nCity performs backup services for you, we _will NOT_ perform any sort of cleanup on your behalf. We won't even empty the trash (although we are quite likely to suggest that _you_ do so yourself).

First startup, new Mac:

On the first-run of a new Macintosh, importing data is merely one step in initial setup process; all it requires is a FireWire cable and a click. Setup screens will walk you thru importing your data from an older Mac - including accounts and network info - and it couldn't be easier. If you missed the import step or didn't have a FireWire cable handy, don't worry; see next entry (below).

Migration Assistant, new Mac:

Nested inside Applications -> Utilities folder is the MacOS Migration Assistant (previously called Migration Manager in OS 10.3.5 to 10.3.9). Launching Migration Assistant from your new Mac will initiate the same import process as above, instructing you to startup your old Mac in Target Disk Mode (hold "T" key during startup), then connect a FireWire cable between machines.

MacOS 10.4's Migration Assistant is located

within Applications -> Utilities folder.

Also known as Migration Manager, this function

arrived with Panther OS version 10.3.5.

Migration Assistant and Target Disk Mode.

In addition to having FireWire ports, the machine being copied _from_ must be capable of booting in Target Disk Mode - at least officially. That limits the list of machines somewhat:

Slot loading iMacs with Firmware v2.4 or later
All iMacs models after July 2000
All eMacs and all Mac Minis
All iBooks after September 2000
All FireWire-equipped PowerBooks
G4 PowerMacs after July 2000
All G5 PowerMacs
All Intel-powered Macs

Unofficially, if your old machine is not on that list, we still have ways of using Migration Assistant going back to G3s, PowerPCs and Performas running OS8.6 or later. Using Migration Assistant turns an otherwise tedious and troublesome process into a cake walk, so it is well worth whatever trouble may be necessary to accommodate Migration Assistant (or Migration Manager); unfortunately, there are far too many variables involved to discuss the process here.

OS9 and older apps and files:

If you're still dragging System and software from OS9 and earlier, we highly recommend taking this opportunity to ditch all but your unique documents and data, if you haven't already. Make a backup copy of all files first, to make sure no data is lost; then copy your photos and graphics, music, sound files and unique documents to your new Mac. Such files should open in appropriate applications that came with OSX; you might lose some font, style and layout info from certain older files, but even if you have to copy-and-paste text between old and new, you'll be free of all that old baggage.

Connections: FireWire, Ethernet, USB.

Importing data using Migration Assistant requires a FireWire cable and FireWire ports on both Macs. If FireWire is unavailable, ethernet or USB are also options, but, without Migration Assistant, data transfer becomes a bit more complicated.

Ethernet (with File Sharing turned on) is probably the next-best choice provided both Macs are running OSX; connecting to a user's Home folder or to hard drive (or partition), you can compare files and file locations, create Admin accounts as necessary, then copy essential files and folders manually to new machine.

FireWire

(IEEE 1394)

Ethernet

USB

Best option is FireWire using Migration Assistant;

this places all files exactly where they belong.

Next-best options are Ethernet and USB.

"Manual" file transfer options:

Most application programs have import/export functions built-in to handle data transfers and different file types. Other apps use "libraries" (like iTunes, iPhoto, etc.) which may also be imported to a new installation using the same applications that create such libraries. Being reasonably current, updated and organized is extremely helpful when it comes to data transfers.

If you have an external USB backup drive, plug it into your new machine, open the drive's window and open a second Finder window in your new Mac. Files and folders may then be copied from old volume to new one, either file-by-file or all files at once by creating a special folder and dragging everything into it. There are shareware and commercial utilities available to make the process easier, step by step, but having an extra HDD of sufficient capacity for temporary storage is often helpful if not absolutely necessary.

Making the transition from a _very_ old Mac lacking even a USB port can turn the copy process into a two-step or three-step ordeal, but it's still possible. We still keep a few elderly (but functional) Macs around the shop for just this reason.

Where'd it go?: Those familiar with previous MacOS versions will quickly notice that certain features have moved, while others may have been replaced or - in some cases - eliminated altogether. Starting with the new MenuBar, here are some of the more notable changes.

Apple Menu:

Restart, Sleep and Shut Down (formerly in the old Special Menu) have migrated to the Apple Menu, along with update functions and preferences. New additions include a "Force Quit" command for misbehaving application programs, and "Log Out" for use with multiple user profiles. The ability to add aliases to the old Apple Menu is now a function provided by the new Dock (below).

Control Panels: Gone. Likewise, System Extensions.

Controls are now largely accessed thru System Preferences (in the Dock), or are logically relocated such as the System Update and Software Update functions now found under the Apple Menu.

About This Mac:

Still the first item under the Apple Menu, "About This Mac" identifies the System version, processor and installed memory, but it no longer indicates memory usage by OS and open applications due to protected memory management in OSX. (Allocating memory to individual applications is a thing of the past.)

System Profile:

Combined with the "About This Mac" menu item, System Profile's information is now located under a "More Info" button in the About This Mac pane.

Incidentally, this menu item was changed to read "About This Computer" during the brief time when Apple licensed clone makers Motorola, UMAX and PowerComputing (among others) in the mid '90s.

(See Collecting System Info and Specs section for more on System Profile's contents.)

System Profile's new location

The Chooser: Gone.

With USB replacing serial ports, the Chooser's primary functions have been replaced by more straightforward controls located in System Preferences: Print/Fax and Network. System Preferences are found in the Dock under this icon:

Application Menu: Moved and modified.

The next menu in the MenuBar changes names and content (as the Application Menu did), according to the currently active application. Here it appears as the Finder menu and contains both Finder prefs and the "Empty Trash" command. New additions include the Finder's built-in "Secure Empty Trash" that overwrites (obliterates) deleted files, and the Services submenu which allows interaction with other applications.

View Menu:

In addition to traditional Icon and List Views, a new Column View has been added (and - thankfully - the simplistic Button View is now gone).

Column View Options:

As illustrated, there aren't many options available - or necessary - for the Column View. Without icons, the Column View looks much like a List View; files and folders appear in alphabetical order by name.

With "preview column" turned on, clicking a file produces a (large) thumbnail of the file within adjoining column; clicking a folder displays the folder's contents in next column.

The Dock:

Dragging any file, folder or icon into the Dock creates an alias within the Dock. Serving a multitude of functions, the Dock allows you to launch and switch between applications, indicates which apps are currently open (small black triangle), open files by drag-and-drop, manage windows and more. Clicking the Finder icon opens the Finder window.....: Perhaps the most immediate and apparent change, Finder windows now have a ToolBar at the top and a SideBar along the window's left side.


: The ToolBar has forward and back buttons similar to those found in most Browsers, shortcut buttons for changing window views (icon, list and column), built-in search functions, and optional one-click tools that can be added to all windows. (In the illustration above, Get Info, Find, New Folder and Delete icons have all been added to the ToolBar). All of these functions are also found in the Finder's menus as well as in contextual menus (mousedown in window with Control Key).

Finder's SideBar can be somewhat confusing, especially when it appears with every open window. It allows direct access to contents of your network and all mounted disks (also appearing on the desktop), each user's Home folder, Application and Document folders, and special storage areas for movies, music and images.

Eject buttons appear next to all removable media (near CD icon in illustration).

The SideBar is fully customizable via System Preferences (SideBar) or Finder's Preference pane, where you can add or remove SideBar items as aliases. For example, having an alias of the desktop represented is somewhat redundant, since the desktop (and its contents) are always present in the Finder. Dragging that desktop icon out of the SideBar will cause it to disappear in an animated puff of smoke.

Each user account has a Home folder (along with all user-defined preferences and permissions). The only user shown here is nCity, represented by nCity's Home folder with its house icon. If there were other user accounts on this particular machine, additional house icons would appear alongside each user's name.
Finder Navigation Aids:: Quick and easy ways to navigate between open windows and applications in the Finder (in addition to traditional means) include a Command+Tab key combination and Apple's new Expose´ function.

: Holding the Command key and pressing Tab produces a gigantic version of the Dock containing icons of all open windows. While holding the Command key, repeatedly pressing Tab cycles through these icons; releasing Command key brings selected window to the fore. Here, Safari is selected.

Expose´:: Possibly the coolest navigation tool ever! Pressing the F9 key shrinks and tiles all open windows, then displays the window's title with a mouseover. A click brings selected window to front.


: In this illustration, open windows (clockwise from top-left) include PhotoShop, Finder, TextEdit, Safari, Mail, another TextEdit doc, and an AppleScript file. Cursor is over Mail (with yellow highlight) showing that Mail's In Box is currently open (displaying the window's title, "In").
: Pressing F10 displays all windows from the currently active application (only) in a similar fashion.; F11 hides all open windows leaving only the desktop.; Holding each of these F keys produces the key's effect until key is released; tapping these keys toggles their respective functions on/off. Bring any selected window to front by clicking on it or by pressing the spacebar. Tab key and arrow keys cycle through windows in Expose´.

"You need to restart...": With any luck, a simple restart will do the trick - in which case, there's no need for concern. You've encountered a Kernel Panic, a condition where your Operating System was looking for something that was temporarily unavailable for some reason.

The Kernel Panic screen.

First, a gray curtain descends on display, then the black box appears with its "restart" message in four languages. That's if all goes as planned; sometimes, the screen simply appears all at once, and sometimes the OS doesn't even have a chance to put anything onscreen - especially if problem is related to video circuit, video card or a display problem.

More info, and a few troubleshooting tips, may be found under OSX Kernel Panic link in sidebar (Left).

Bummer, dude: You've suffered a Kernel Panic.
KP during startup.: When your machine starts up, it does a quick hardware diagnostic, polls all devices, starts up the hard drive, checks for disks in other drives, checks each bus (USB, FireWire, SCSI, optical, etc.), then loads the Operating System from disk into memory (RAM). A lot of things transpire between pressing the Power button and arriving at the desktop, and if anything along the way is damaged, failing, missing, corrupted or otherwise out-of-order, the Operating System cannot continue and will drop a Kernel Panic. Noting exactly when KP appeared during the startup process - immediately, after logo screen, after login, at desktop - can be helpful during diagnosis.

KP during operation.: If a KP occurs during otherwise normal operation, the cause may be similar but the number of potential suspects goes way up; something (just about anything) has gone missing, and the OS cannot continue until situation is resolved. It might be a hardware problem, or it might be a software issue. Either way, a persistent KP - especially if it appears to be random - will quickly and completely disable your Mac. If causing a KP is repeatable (meaning a particular action or series of steps will likely produce a KP), we're well on our way to finding its cause. If random, well..... we have ways to sort it out for you. If you like, explore a few possible solutions posted here under the OSX Kernel Panic link in sidebar (to left).

Here's a tip: DC that iPod.: You might want to disconnect your iPod before downshifting into OS9. iPods seem to confuse the heck out of other devices connected to the USB bus, causing printer utilities to hang in the background, error messages about missing drivers, hang on shutdown/restart from OS9..... it might even mess with keyboard and mouse.
: Other USB devices may require a driver in each OS in order to operated from either System. Some newer devices do not have OS9 drivers, in which case OS9 will merrily suggest going online to hunt for one (don't bother). If these messages are troublesome, disconnect unsupported USB devices before launching OS9; otherwise, dismiss (cancel) and carry on.

Dual-boot (OS9 + OSX) Setup:: There are three ways to setup a dual-boot system for pre-G5, pre-Intel Macs capable of starting up with both OS9 and OSX:
: 1) The default installation of Panther or Tiger (skip Jaguar) with OS9 operating in Classic Mode.; 2) Partitioning a single drive into two boot volumes, OS9 on one and OSX on the other.; 3) Formatting two individual drives, OS9 and OSX.
: Each setup has its own advantages and disadvantages, but all three configurations will still run OS9 apps in Classic Mode under OSX. Adding matching backup volumes of equal or larger capacity is highly recommended. (See Technical -> Upgrades section for suggested OS9/OSX setup.)
: G5 and later models (and a few G4s) cannot startup with OS9 of course, so the only choice is a default System install with legacy apps running in Classic Mode. The Leopard OS and Intel Macs will not support OS9 or OS9 applications in any way.

Switching Systems:: Some odd things have been known to happen when running certain OS9 apps in classic mode or when swapping files between Systems. A few older apps simply can't handle Classic Mode and must be run under OS9 alone or be abandoned altogether (if updates are not available). Fortunately, there aren't many of these. Most apps handle the transition seamlessly, and some can read/write their own files in both OS9 and OSX versions of the program - _with_ certain caveats. Much depends on program(s) in use, age and update status.
: It's a good idea to eliminate as many unnecessary control panels and system extensions under OS9 as possible to avoid extension conflicts while running OS9 in Classic Mode. Because control panels in OS9 are generally inaccessible under OSX, you may have to reboot in OS9 to make adjustments. Restart/startup with Option Key down to select startup volume, or use the Startup Disk control panel (in System Preferences under OSX, in Control Panels under OS9). Once you are up and running in OS9, open the Extension Manager control panel (or Conflict Catcher, if installed). Start with the extension set named "OS9 All" and add only those extensions that are absolutely necessary. Be sure to disable any and all file utility and anti-virus software. Save this new extension set, set your startup disk back to OSX and restart.
: Always save your work before moving between Systems (just in case), but be careful to avoid saving changes to OSX docs while running under OS9; doing so may cause unwanted changes or render the file unusable.
: If switching between docs/apps in OS9 and OSX is a problem, try using an alternative method of opening files. If double-clicking a file from the Finder is a problem, try using drag-and-drop, or try opening the file from within its application using "Open" from the File menu. Most OS9 docs/apps require startup of OS9 in classic mode before opening, and launching Classic manually beforehand might also be of help.

Adobe ImageReady:

Creating an Image Ready CS animation under OSX will produce this interesting message when attempting to open that same file under OS9 using an earlier - and older - version of Adobe's Image Ready.

Adobe PDF:

Trying to open certain PDF documents in OSX may produce this empty dialog box. What's it mean? It means that using Preview as your default app used to handle PDF files might be a better choice than letting Adobe do it.

PhotoShop Layers:

PhotoShop CS documents created under OSX can be opened in previous versions of PS under OS9. However, some CS features might not make the transition, notably layer sets which may come up empty, and font layers which will always be a problem. Best to create a flattened version of layered graphics for transfer between Systems and PhotoShop versions.
Crash Report:

: If an application crashes under OSX, the crash is logged and this Crash Report window appears requesting a description of events leading to the crash. Clicking the Send to Apple button (theoretically) sends your crash log to techs at Apple who can then do whatever it is that techs do with such things. (?)
: Just generally speaking, I'd guess that unless you're onto something really strange, you can probably feel free to cancel this. Especially if the crash is app-specific and unrelated to System functions. (It can be a helpful tool for troubleshooting, tho, as is the crash log.)

Force Quit:

Available under the Apple menu, this function allows a graceful way to exit applications that may be stuck in a loop or freeze without bringing down the whole system (restart). No harm, no foul - aside from loss of whatever was done since the last save. No Crash Report is generated using a Force Quit since the OS was not involved in creating the problem. Allow plenty of time for process to complete before resorting to a force quit; check Activity Monitor (next item, below).
The "Spinning Pizza of Death" (operation times out):: If a program refuses to respond for too long, it may have dropped into what used to be called a closed-locked-loop. Depending on where your cursor happens to be hovering, it will appear